In all the boxes of goodies from Whyte, they sent us out some trick little bits and pieces to help us tell you about all the cool things that they incorporate into their frames. The blokes who design the Whyte bikes must put in some serious overtime at both the computer and in the saddle. Everywhere you look on the bikes, there is another little touch that is there to make your life easier and also to make you say “Why didn’t I think of that!”
Instead of cutting a slot into the seat tube, which weakens the frame, lets in grime and gunk, and places nasty crimping forces on seatposts, they came up with an ingenious design called the Getta Grip. It uses a window in the seat tube. Inside that window sits a pad, which the QR pushes onto the seatpost. The QR collar completely covers the window to keep gunk out of the seat tube. Since pictures are better than words, here’s a few to peep.
This is the pad sitting in window with the QR closed. When it’s in this position, the seatpost has almost 100% contact with the seat tube.
This is the Getta Grip open. The amount of force needed to open and close is silly in just how little is needed. After years of having to crank down on QRs to keep posts from slipping, it’s almost hard at first to get used to this system.
If all the passengers of this blog look to the back of their bikes, you’ll see the Big Gripper droupouts. It’s Whyte’s system that allows any 135mm QR rear wheel to have the stiffness and rigidity of a much heavier and clunky through axle. You attach these little doughnut doodads onto your existing rear hub, throw the old skewer into the parts bin, slide the rear wheel in to place. and turn the clamp lever until the arrows line up. Everything always lines up and you never have to mess with adjusting your QR’s clamp tightness. Yet again, more pics.
This is the Big Gripper open. The black top hat shaped doodad i the middle is what goes onto your hub and what the rest of the droupout clamps around. It winds up with way more comtack area than a regular QR.
This is the system closed and ready to ride. All you do is rotate the long arm of the lever until the arrows on it and the arm line up and you’re done. Now go ride.
The Ti hardtails use the the 19 dropout, which actually gives you 20mm of chainstay length adjustment. It’s called the 19 dropout because you can use either one gear or nine on the rear, hence the 19. It also allows you to fine tune the chainstay length, BB drop, and even ST and HT angles slightly. Running it shorter will steepen the bike up and raise the BB, perfect for the tight and twisties. Rock it in the longer spots and the BB drops and the angles slack out a bit so you can get your flowy groove on. For grins, here’s pics of the dropout in all of the different spots. It’s shown on a aluminum frame bit, but comes on the ti rig. Also, the dirty coffee cup is not included.